splice (which will total in overall size greater than 12ga.) is the maximum sized wire that can reasonably be soldered with a 35-40 watt iron. Soldering becomes more problematic as wire gauge increases a 14ga. Good soldering irons or soldering guns usually start at about $40. However, soldering requires considerable more skill than crimped or twist nut splices and requires specialized tools, namely an adequate soldering iron. A successfully soldered splice will be as strong as the cable itself. Soldering is probably the most robust method of splicing.Under no circumstance should butt splices or crimped caps ever be used with solid-core wire like Romex, ect. Butt splices if done correctly are about as sturdy as twist-on nuts and crimped caps and require no taping.Ĭrimped devices are designed to be used solely with stranded wire. Like crimped nuts, butt splices should be firmly and fully crimped with a correct-sized crimper jaw, and the connection should be subjected to a pull-test afterwards. In other words, no bare wire should be exposed. The insulation should fully butt up against the internal metal sleeve, and be fully covered by the outer plastic cover. With butt splices, the insulation should be stripped back only far enough for the bare wire the fully seat in the metal sleeve. Like nuts and caps, there are specific sizes of butt splices for specific gauge size: Yellow butts are for 10-12ga. Butt splices are the choice if the spliced wire is to be run around baseboards. Insulated butt splices are installed in-line and as such are the best splicing method where there are concerns for aesthetics.
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Crimped caps, if done correctly, are about as sturdy as twist-on nuts and require no taping. The cap should be firmly and fully crimped with a correct-sized jaw of a crimping tool, and the connection should be subjected to a pull-test afterwards. Again, there are specific sizes for the gauge of wire you are using, and the insulation on the wire should not be stripped back so far that bare wire extends beyond the base of the nut.
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The key to a good twist-nut splice is selecting the correct wire nut size for the gauge of cable you are using. However they can work well with stranded wire if installed properly, and make for excellent connectivity. Twist-on wire nuts are designed primary for use with solid-gauge wire, like house electrical Romex.
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Twist and tape splices in an attic at your own peril.
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It's the only kind that I've found that won't loosen with time - indoors at least. If you must twist and tape, use only the most expensive 3M electrical tape - usually around $3 a roll at the hardware store. Furthermore, tape tends to loosen over time as the adhesive breaks down, especially cheap electrical tape. A pull on the wire will usually make the splice separate. Twist and tape: This is the worst method and is not recommended.
#Splice 2 100 watt speakers to 1 wire how to
Therefore if there is ever a problem in the future where that cable is involved, the splice point is the first thing to check.Īs far as how to accomplish the splice there are several methods, all with their own specific strength and weaknesses: The only problem with splicing is that (obviously) the structural integrity of a cable is compromised.
#Splice 2 100 watt speakers to 1 wire pro
Brian O, Brian E, and anyone else who needs/wants to know,Īs a former pro installer I can assure you that splicing is fine.